MarcDuino v1.5

MarcDuino v1.5 by Mowee

Despite it's version number, this is currently the newest and recommended MarcDuino board.

Brian Dodds (Mowee) has updated the MarcDuino v1, backporting the features of the v2, but keeping the simple through-hole, Do-It-Yourself approach of the v1. And he made it much smaller. We called it the MarcDuino Compact v1.5.

Brian is also offering these pre-assembled/pre-programmed, complete with holders, as an "always available" run:

http://astromech.net/forums/showthread.php?30724-Compact-Marcduino-v1-5-BC-Approved-Continuous-Various-(Jan-2017)-Open

The support thread is here, please post your questions there rather than contacting me directly:

https://astromech.net/forums/showthread.php?28414-Support-Thread-for-MarcDuino-v1-5-s

This essentially makes the v1 obsolete. v1.5 is the currently recommended DIY or purchased version of the MarcDuino.

It looks like this:

Here is a size comparison between v1.5 and the original v1:

Ordering the already assembled v1.5 boards

You can order completed, assembled and tested boards from Mowee on the Astromech forum, currently here:

http://astromech.net/forums/showthread.php?30724-Compact-Marcduino-v1-5-BC-Approved-Continuous-Various-(Jan-2017)-Open

Making your own v1.5 boards

If you want to build your own, the basic printed unpopupated printed circuit boards are available from OshPark at the link below:

Marcduino v1.5 Boards on Oshpark

It's the same board for the master and the slave. The only difference is the firmware you load up.

Ordering the components

Here is the list of components you need for 1 board. You need twice that for a master and a slave.

MarcDuino v1.5 Component List

The location of the components is printed on the silk screen. Here is a top picture of the finished board. +5V power to the middle pin of the 3 pin connectors is controlled by the solder jumpers marked PWR. Bridge the two pads with solder if you want to forward power to the connector. For example below, the two solder blobs assume you want to power your RC receiver and the Teeces or MP3 through the board:

Build the board and load v2 firmware

I have not made special instructions for the v1.5. The board is built like a v1, inspire yourself from the instructions there. EXCEPT that you should choose the v2 firmware.

Connecting the boards

See pictures and instructions below. It's a cross between v1 and v2.

5V power comes into the ST1 connector on the right. A good 5V 6A to 9A switched power supply such as this one should work:

https://www.pololu.com/product/2866

The 9A should be able to power both master and slave, or for added added you can take two 6A supplies and connect each one to a board (this would duplicate the v2 setting).

The servo markings and ordering is the same as v2, you can inspire yourself from the v2 video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43RIDinTdUg

The Master panel servo numbering follows that of the R2 Touch app, corresponding to the numbers 1-10 marked below the headers on the board:

The slave have the holo servos, refer to the marking above the 10 servo headers, self- explanatory:

Front, Rear, Top refer to the holo position, V is the one moving in the vertical direction, H in the horizontal direction

Slave connection. If the "To Slave" Pwr solder blob is not filled, you have to power the slave through its main (ST1) connector. It makes for a less elegant wiring than powering it through the 3 prong "To Slave" cable and the solder blob, but it carries more current, therefore main power connection to slave is recommended for a full setup with servos.